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Social

Technology & Influences

Findings & Motifs

Materials

1750

Color again seen in jewelry

1760-1820

Ornate shoe buckles of paste, steel and tin part of fashionable dress. Elaborate paste jeweled buttons fashionable in British society. Semi precious jewels e.g. uncut garnets became usual as part of less formal day dress, fake jewelry gained popularity.

Fake gems begin to be produced in London Steel easy to produced during the industrial revolution. London and Birmingham used it as settings for marcasite & jasper ware cameos. Glass and Wedgwood porcelain paste cameos made in English factories very popular.

1780

Front-entry hinged earring backs (hand made); flattened earwire tip

Highest popularity & quality of paste jewelry. Set in silver & silver-topped rose gold. Black spot of pitch on culet to simulate Old Mine cut gems

Late Georgian Period

1782

Lavoisier melts platinum from ore w/ pure oxygen

Hand made box clasp

1785

Prince George (IV) popularized ‘Lover’s Eye’ miniatures

1788-99

French revolution

“T&C” bar shaped hinged extended pinstem

French paste fashionable until about 1840 in France, 1900 in England. Settings convex on reverse. Suites.

1795

Diamond begin to be set in open backs

1799-1815

Napoleonic Wars

Amethysts discovered in Russia’s Ural Mountains

1800

Open back settings for colored gems

Cannetille filigree (Paris)

“C” catch for brooches

Tube hinge

Spiral tube hinge

1801

Oxyhodrogen (gas) blowpipe invented

1819

Gas blowpipe in use by jeweler

1804

Greek and Roman architecture were the main influence for designs as ancient treasures not yet discovered

Berlin iron works opens

1813-15

Berlin iron “gold gab ich fur Eisen

1820

Ancient Etruscan goldwork discovered

Decline in quality of paste over next 20 years. Mass-produced round cuts, used as simulants, set in silver or silver w/ low-karat gold backs

1829

Sir Walter Scott writes Anne of Gerstein , begins opal superstition

Opals believed to be ‘bad luck’

French square hallmark for double’ d’or (rolled gold)

1830

Alexandrite discovered in Russia’s Ural

Revival of claw (coronet) settings from Middle Ages

Hinged “O” clasp

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