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Technology & Influences

Findings & Motifs

Materials

1836

Acetylene discovered & ID’d

Early Victorian (Romantic) Period

1837

Queen Victoria crowned; Tiffany’s founded.

Jewelry romantic, nationalistic, reflecting European folk art, which later influenced the Arts and Crafts Movement. Most western jewelry came from Europe, but soon jewelry began to be made in America and Australia

1837

Order of the Garter strap & buckle motifs poplar

1840

Electroplating  process patented

Tension hinge

Spring ring developed, tiny lever hard to use

Tongue-in-groove tension clasp

Swivel hook for watches

Small tube clasp developed

Permanently foiled pastes; electroplated jewelry; ‘pebble’ jewelry Scottish agate “pebble” jewelry became popular

1842

Gutta Percha introduced

1847

Cartier founded in Paris

1848

Rolled gold plating

1849

CA gold rush

Safety pin invented Gold electroplating patented

Safety pin hinges

Gold jewelry will soon have more gold

Gold electroplated jewelry

1850

Trombone safety catch patented

Swivel brooches popular

Shorter pinstems

Garnet/glass doublets

1851

Crystal Palace exhibition

Gold/diamonds discovered in Australia

Vulcanite patented by Goodyear

1852

Tiffany introduces English sterling standard in US

1853

Demantoid garnets discovered

1854

15K, 12K & 9K gold legal in GB

1855

RW Bunsen & gas-air Bunsen Burner

Aluminum jewelry made in France

1856

First synthetic aniline dye yields mauve

1857

Just in time for semi-mourning

1857

Snake-chain making machine

Machine-made chain

1859

Jewels of Queen Ah-Hotep discovered in Egypt

1860

Collet stamping patent, Bouret & Ferre’

Die-stamped jewelry findings

Hook catch on back of earwire

1860

Henry Morse, 1st US diamond factory, Boston

1872-75

Henry D. Morse develops first American round brilliant in Boston

Mid-Victorian (Grand) Period

1861

Civil war Prince Albert dies

Mourning jewelry req. at court

1861-80

Mourning materials & motifs

1867

Egyptian Revival jewelry at Paris Expo

“Eurica” diamond discovered in So. Africa

Egyptian Revival styles begin

1868

Celluloid invented in US; Gorham (RI) adopts 925 standard

1872

1875

Celluloid commercial production

Celluloid jewelry production begins in Newark, NJ

1869

Diamond rush in So. Africa

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