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Social

Technology & Influences

Findings & Motifs

Materials

1870

Influx of European craftsmen to US; Japanese craftsmen introduce Eastern metal-working technique. Liberty of London and Renee Mackintosh of Glasgow produce Arts & Crafts.

Diamonds discovered in Kimberly

Matthey perfects the lime furnace for platinum refining

Reaction to shoddy, inferior machine made mass produced goods inspires Arts & Crafts movement.

William Morris and John Ruskin promote simple Arts and Crafts designs based on floral, primitive or Celtic forms. Polished stones give a medieval, simpler, gentler, tooled handmade look and feel.

1872

Black opals discovered in Queensland

Herpers patents 6-prong diamond setting

6-prong diamond settings; in 1886 became the “Tiffany” setting

1873

Steam-powered diamond bruiting machine

“New Mine” / “Old European” cut diamonds

Peruzzi cut becomes “Old Mine” cut

1876

Victoria becomes Empress of India

Castellani lectures on Etruscan Revival jewelry

Beginning of Etruscan Revival

1877

First small synthetic rubies & sapphires

1878

Medal to Tiffany & Co for “Japanesque” encrusted metals

Patent / platinum-tipped diamond setting prongs

Tiffany diamond discovered in So. Africa

Late Victorian (Aesthetic) Period

1880

Rational Dress Society founded

Hinged kidney wire earring

Threaded post earring

Plunge clasp

Cecil Rhodes establishes DeBeers

Swiss mass produces watches

1885

Safety pin/safety pin head catch

‘Geneva’ synthetic ruby appeared

1886

Statue of Liberty dedicated

Gold discovered in So Africa

Emerald step cut developed, wide use in Art Deco (1920’s)

1887

Victoria’s Golden Jubilee

Celluloid film invented

Black opals discovered in New So. Wales; Lightning Ridge mining in 1903

1889

Eiffel Tower constructed

1888

CR Ashbee’s Guild of Handicraft (London)

1890

Sarah Bernhardt plays Cleopatra; ‘Gibson Girls’

European hinge/lever back earwire

1891

US McKinley Tariff Act (1890)

Power-driven diamond bruiting machine

Imports to US marked with name of country

More circular (OE cut) diamonds

1893

Chicago Columbian World’s Exposition

Cultured pearls developed by K. Mikimoto

1905

“Platingeld” simulated gold & platinum introduced (for chains)

Spherical cultured pearls

1894

Screw back earring back patented

Screw back earring

1895

Lalique jewelry exhibited

1896

Lever safety catch used in Europe

1897

Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee

Casein plastics - Germany

1898

Alaskan Gold Rush

1899-1902

Boer War (So America)

1899-1902

Diamond supplies curtailed by war

Edwardian (Belle Époque) Period

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