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Social

Technology & Influences

Findings & Motifs

Materials

1900

Paris Exposition Universelle

US adopts the monetary Gold Standard

Oxyacetylene torch invented by E. Fouché

Diamond saw invented in US; Arts and Crafts movement declines, Art Nouveau, a more ostentatious version started in France, takes root.

American lever back ER

Rivet hinge

Modern spring ring clasp

Synthetic rubies exhibited at Paris Exposition

Art Nouveau jewelry exhibited

More fancy cut diamond shapes possible1905

1901

Queen Victoria dies; McKinley assassinated; Teddy Roosevelt President;

Fold-down lever safety catch for brooches patented

Fold-down pendant bail

1902

Edward VII coronation

Verneuil presents flame-fusion process for syn. rubies

1904

Flame-fusion rubies patented by Verneuil

1903

Patent for setting rhinestones or metal in celluloid

1905

Georg Jensen opens shop

Einstein’s theory of relativity

Spherical cultured pearls grown by Mikimoto

1906

US National Stamping Act

Synthetic spinel accidentally invented

Marking required for gold & silver content

1909

Cartier New York opens

Leo Bakeland patents entirely synthesized plastic

Bakelite invented

1910

Ballet Russes presents Shérézad in Paris; Edward VII dies

Bullet safety catch for brooches patented

Tongue-in-groove “W” clasp

Suffragette jewelry popular in US (green white & violet—“give women votes”)

1911

George V coronation

1912

Titanic sinks

Oscar Heyman Bros founded

Lever safety catch used in US

1914

WWI begins

Platinum declared a strategic metal, no new supplies for jewelry

1915

SF Panama-Pacific International Exposition

Karl Richter (Pforzheim, Germany) invents  14K white gold

White gold of gold, nickel & palladium patented

1917

David Belais introduces 18k white gold

Cartier designs the tank watch

18K white gold (18k Belais) marketed

Post-WWI – 20th Century Period & Modern Era

1919

Bauhaus founded in Germany

Marcel Tolkowsky publishes Diamond Design, based on Henry D. Morse’s standards

“American-“ “Ideal-“ cut diamond nomenclature

1920

Women get the vote

Radio programs broadcasting in PA

Post & clutch earring

Swivel catch (used today)

1922

King Tutankhamun’s tomb

1925

Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes

Synthetic spinel in wide commercial use

1926

Commercial injection molding machine patented

Earring guard patented

1927

Cellulose acetate (“Lumarith”) introduced by Celluloid Corp.

1929

Stock market crash begins Great Depression

1930

Nion des Artistes Modernes formed in Paris

Chrysler Building in NY completed

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