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Social

Technology & Influences

Findings & Motifs

Materials

1931

Wm Spratling’s first Taxco Mexico workshop

Empire State Bldg completed

Coro patents the “Duette” double clip brooch pin back mechanism

1932

12K & 15K gold replaced in Britain by 14K

1933

Gold coins taken out of circulation

Lost wax casting re-introduced, used with vulcanized rubber molds

Invisible setting patented by artier & Van Cleef & Arpels (1936);

1934

Synthetic emeralds (“Igmerald”, Farben Germany) first seen

VC&A “Ludo” flexible “honeycomb or octagon mesh bracelet

Clip back for unpierced ears patented by Ballou

“Bois Glacé” (D. Lisner’s TM for “Bakelite”) colorless phenolic plastic laminated to wood

1936

George V dies; Edward VIII abdicates to become Duke of Windsor & marry Wallis Simpson; Gone With the Wind pub

1937

“Lucite” acrylic plastic introduced by Du Pont

VC&A makes ‘marriage contract’ bracelet for Wallis Simpson

1939

Double-hinged dress (“fur”) clip introduced

Chatham synthetic emeralds marketed

1940

France occupied by Germany; Bank of France bans all gold trading.

Tongue-in-groove box clasp

1941

Japan bombs Pearl Harbor

US puts 10% luxury tax on jewelry; 20% in 1944

1942

US rationing of sugar, coffee, gasoline

Polyethylene formulated; becomes Tupperware

Platinum prohibited for jewelry.

White metal restricted; sterling silver replaces it in costume jewelry

1945

WWII ends

Mexico requires “spread eagle” assay mark req. for sterling silver

1946

Opal doublets introduced

1947

Christian Dior’s “New Look”

Costume jewelry makers began using © instead of patent #

Linde synthetic star rubies

Synthetic rutile diamond simulant

1954

GE produces first synthetic diamonds

1955

Oval cut diamonds popularized

Swarovski “aurora borealis” for rhinestone & crystal

Strontium titanate diamond simulant

1960

Kennedy elected

Opal triplets

1961

Princess cut diamond developed

US requires maker’s trademark (inter-state trade)

1967

Tanzanite discovered

1970

Omega earring back

1974

Nixon resigns

Tsavorite green garnet discovered

1976

Plumb gold amendment to Nat’l Stampint Act (14KP)

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