thumbscrew a turn sufficient to liberate the spring from the swivel and mainspring notch; remove the spring; 2d. The sear-spring screw; 3d. The sear-screw and sear. 4th. The bridle screw and bridle. 5th. The tumbler-screw; 6th. The tumbler-this is driven out with a punch, inserted in the screw hole, which at the same time liberates the hammer. 7th. Detach the main ring swivel from the tumbler with a drift-punch; 8th. Take out the feed finger and spring; 9th the catch-spring and screw.
As a general rule, all parts of the musket are assembled in the inverse order in which them are dismounted. Before replacing screws, oil them slightly with a good sperm oil, (inferior oil is converted into a gum which clogs the operation of the parts) Screws should not be turned in so hard as to make the parts bind. When a lock has from any cause become gummed with oil and dirt, it may be cleaned by boiling in soapsuds or in pearl ash or soda water; heat should never be applied in any other way.
Precautions in Using. - On ordering arms on parade, let the butt be brought gently to the ground, especially if the ground be hard. This will save the mechanism of the lock from shocks, which are very injurious to it and which tend to loosen and mar the screws and spoilt the woodwork. The ramrod should not be "sprung" with unnecessary force, for fear of injuring the corners of the grooves; and, in stacking arms, care should be taken not injure the bayonets by forcibly training the edges against each other. No cutting, marking, or scraping the wood or iron should be allowed; and no part of the gun should be touched with a file. Take every possible care to prevent wear from getting between the lock or barrel, and stock. If any should get there, dismount the gun as soon as possible, clean and oil the parts as directed, and see that they are perfectly dry assembling them.