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Mountaineering in the Andes



The task of compiling this book would have been virtually impossible and too depressingly daunting, had I not built on the following basic sources: Pietro Meciani’s Le Ande; Evelio Echevarr¡a’s Survey of Andean Ascents; and the Climbs and Expeditions section of the American Alpine Journal.

I also owe a great debt of gratitude to all who have helped me with this project, for dealing so sympathetically and efficiently with my many requests for information, books and photocopies; and in this respect I especially wish to thank Pieter Crow of Lander, Wyoming.

I want to thank each of the following for helping in similar ways: Pat Johnson, Alpine Club Librarian; Pat Fletcher, American Alpine Club Librarian; the staff of Keswick Public Library; Hans-Dieter Greul, Alpin International, Frankfurt/M; Mario Mingardi, Libreria Alpina, Bologna; Audrey Salkeld; John Pollock, Seattle; Dan Buck, Washington,D.C.; Deutscher Alpenverein Library, Munich; Domenico Mottinelli, Biblioteca Nazionale del Club Alpino Italiano, Turin; Evelio Echevarr-a, Fort Collins, Colorado; Hillary Bradt, Bradt Enterprises; June Parker, Hon. Librarian, Fell & Rock Climbing Club; Jos‚ Betancourt and Carlos Chalbaud, Mérida; Lois A.Krieger, Dartmouth College Library, Hanover, NH; Roger & Elspeth Whewell and Vojslav Arko, San Carlos de Bariloche; Shane Winser, Information Officer, Expedition Advisory Centre; John Pilkington; Peter Leeming, and to John Hemming for his foreword.

More recently, for this new edition, I would also like to thank everyone who has provided information, photographs and published material since the publication of the first edition, especially the following: Vojslav Arko, Bariloche; David Hillebrandt; Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informaciò de Muntanya, Sabadell; Guillermo Rayni‚, Director Anti Suyu, San Juan; Axel Strasser, D.A.V. Library, Munich; and Hermann Wolf, Bayreuth.

A special thank you goes to Kate Cox and Fay Hercod for drawing the sketch maps which have been included, and to David Sharman (who will shortly be publishing his own work on the Cordillera Blanco) for checking them. Last but not least, my thanks also to Deborah Boys for so painstakingly laying out the text. It would be surprising if a work of this nature did not contain some errors and omissions, particularly as it deals with mountain areas which are still in the process of being accurately surveyed and officially named. I have endeavoured to cross-check all the information given and to ensure that it is up-to-date and apologize for whatever mistakes there may be.


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