I hated the idea of adding any “spaghetti” near the battery - which was the whole idea of the FZ-1 fuse panel to begin with.
Unfortunately, after purchase & install of the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 fuse panel, in subsequent purchases of PIAA Powersports 1100X auxiliary driving lamps (love ‘em!) and Gerbing heated clothing I discovered these two items came with inline fuse-holders rated at 20 Amps and 15 Amps, respectively. Exceeding the per-circuit max rating of 10 Amps on the FZ-1 panel. I do not know if the manufacturer-supplied inline fuse ratings represent “steady current draw” or not, but I elected to proceed on the side of caution and thus decided to power these two items via common ground & hot blocks instead of wiring them through the FZ-1 fuse panel.
I like the FZ-1 panel for what it is, the convenience of being able to have always-on or switched-only power simply by changing fuse position, and the comparatively small size, but as the manufacturer states the small size comes at a price of Amperage limitation as noted on their hookup schematic - 30 Amp overall, 10 Amps per individual circuit. Evidently, the manufacturer must presume that all six circuits will not be routinely ennergized at any given time ?
In retrospective hindsight, I would have done better with more foresight to research in advance the amperage draw of any-all anticipated future bling accessories I might likely purchase, and choose a fuse panel accordingly.
I debated returning the FZ-1, but didn’t feel like going through the hassle of that plus installation of a new differing fuse panel. Since I anticipate purchase of no further high-amp-draw bling items, I decided to just live with the choice already made and use the easier fix of a common ground and hot block for the two aforementioned high-draw accessories. All in all I’m satisfied (enough) because I managed to maintain at least some semblance of “orderly neatness” near the battery.
Hope this info proves useful or helpful for anyone considering similar or alternative mods.
Thanks to forum member Brian Fenner for sharing the idea of general install location o floor inside trunk cavity, and for some helpful advices he offered, and to Fred Harmon for his shared info.