Power socket & fuse block mounted on tray, with fuse block cover removed.
I’ll be using “Smart Fuses” with built-in integral LED lights that glow if-when the fuse is blown.
It “wasn’t really necessary”, because there was just enough clearance “as is” . . . but . . . the triple-socket power suppy Velcroed to the main trunk’s rear wall has a wire with cigarette lighter plug that passes under- neath the trunk’s carpet floormat, underneath the front of the CB cavity lid and plugs into the 12V power socket on the fuse block mounting tray panel. So - just to avoid any possible wire chafing, I used a Dremel tool to notch out the front lip of the stock OEM cavity lid for the 12V power adapter’s supply wire, at the location shown here.
DRILLING THE TRUNK HOLE FOR FUSE BLOCK WIRING HARNESS - A WORD OF CAUTION - ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE STOCK OEM HEATED SEAT
I used 14-gauge wire for the six fuse block circuits. Once tightly tape-wrapped into a bundled wiring harness, the diameter of harness was just a tad thicker and just a tad less flexible and bendable that I had anticipated. I could have been a tad more judicious in trunk wall drill hole location but “got lucky” - I ended up having enough clearance for the wire harness to “clear” sufficiently enough to avoid harness chafing over time by the metal mounting tab that holds the electrical connection power supply Hitachi plug for the 2009 Gold Wing stock OEM heated seat. See the following photos. Take your time, go slow, and chose your trunk wall hole-drilling location very carefully for your application needs and your own year-make-model Gold Wing. The next 4 pics will illustrate why (especially if you have a heated seat).