Remove the rear link assembly. This is a gold colored box at the rear of the tray (inset reference “A”). There are 2 nuts (8mm hex) that hold the box to the tray, a philips machine screw that holds the box to the chrome rear lift mechanism (inset reference “B”) and a philips head machine screw that holds the plastic lever to the chromed rear lift mechanism. Two 8mm nuts also hold down the edge of the rear lift mechanism.
Remove the rear most fastener for the aluminum tracks. This is a Philips/8mm hex machine screw. This fastener also holds the threaded shaft in place on the track.
In order to remove the aluminum guide track, two fasteners must be removed from the underside of the tray (8mm hex nuts). Once this is done, the track may be removed by pulling it free and sliding it off of the threaded shaft towards the front of the tray. This motion will also remove the sliding link & slide pin assembly (inset reference “C”).
Once the track is removed, the front mount of the rear lift link assembly will be loose. It is sandwiched between the tray and the track. This can be done with the removal of one hex nut (8mm).
Remove the plastic sliding link guides from the tray. They are held in place by only one 8mm nut. The front plastic link guides are a “high wear” item and should be replaced. The guides on my car were severely distorted. These guides allow adjustment of the “drop” that the sunroof
sliding link is allowed so that the roof panel will fall flush with the roof line.
Once the tray was disassembled, I began cleaning all of the components and removing all traces of the old grease and grime.
Inspect the threaded shaft to make sure it is not losing its “threads” or that the plastic is not losing its integrity. Inspect all of the movable parts for wear. My slide links and pins looked just as good as the new ones that I had on hand to compare with them. As I said above, the only really worn parts I found were the front plastic link guides that reside underneath the front of the aluminum track. Finally, inspect the tray itself. Pay careful attention to where the drain tubes hook up. My tray was in great shape so I cleaned it up for the next stage of the project.
The next step is to lubricate all of the necessary parts and then reassemble. I used a basic white lithium grease making sure not to use too much in any one spot. I greased all of the moving parts and also coated the threaded shaft.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
NICE AND SHINY!
As they say, “reassembly is the reverse of removal”. Hopefully you paid close attention to the disassembly and didn’t wait too long before trying to put everything back together.
Be sure to use adhesive to glue down the inner tray seal. Use adhesive or other water-proof material to seal up the bottom fasteners where the aluminum track studs protrude through the tray. This is a source of potential leaks.
DO NOT neglect to seal up the area where the threaded shaft tubes enter the tray area from the motor. I did this the first time around and ended up with a nice steady drip just above the driver’s seat which required a week of garage time to dry out.