starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees away from the intended felling direction.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90) to the chosen felling direction.
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the bottom directional cut.
WARNING! Unless you have special training we advise you not to fell trees with a diameter larger than the bar length of your saw!
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately.
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the felling hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in the opposite direction to your intended felling direction. Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as soon as it is deep enough.
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.
Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the end of the top cut.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter.The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling hinge.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut should be 45.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.