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ONE GOOD TURN

Continued from page 5

May 2010 Page 6 Mike likes to use the 5” jaws with the Vicmarc chuck. The next step is to true

up the bottom and make a tendon to fit the 5” jaws on the bottom of the piece. Do not remove the small plug that the tail stock is anchored into. This will help recenter the piece when it is removed form the chuck. Mike likes to do a back cut behind the tendon. This helps him to define the shape and location of the bot-

tom. Do as much shaping as you can while the piece is between centers. Sand to 180 grit while be- tween centers. The bowl gouge is used for shaping the outside. Mount the tendon in the chuck and remove all wobble from piece. Finish shaping the piece with the

bowl gouge. Sand the outside to 320 grit. Use the bowl gouge to define the hollow form opening. Also create a small V for starting a drill bit. Drill a ½” hole to just shy of desired depth. Mike uses a long masonry bit in a handle to do this. Begin hollowing form. Take wall thickness to approximately ½” for top 2/3s of form. Bring upper area of form to final wall thickness and sand inside. Bring rest of form to final wall thickness and sand.

Mike’s process for creating a hollow form is as follows:

One the top of the hollow form, drill a 1” diameter hole with a spade bit. With no bark, this should be about 1/8”-1/4” deep. With bark, the hole should penetrate the bark by a little more than 1/8”. Mark the center on the bottom part. Mike uses green wood for his projects.

Place the piece between centers, using the 1” two prong drive center in the drilled hole and the tail stock on the marked bottom center. The pieces we were working on were all cross grain orientation. Tighten up the tail stock. Bring the piece to round with a bowl gouge.

If the piece needs to be adjusted to highlight the grain, balance the top, etc, this can be done with the tail stock side. This is one reason for drilling the hole on the headstock side, it gives you the freedom to make adjustments. Make the adjustments and bring the piece to round again.

Mike likes to use the 5” jaws with the Vicmarc chuck. The next step is to true up the bottom and make a tendon to fit the 5” jaws on the bottom of the piece. Do not remove the small plug that the tail stock is anchored into. This will help recenter the piece when it is removed form the chuck.

Mike likes to do a back cut behind the tendon. This helps him to define the shape and location of the bot- tom. Do as much shaping as you can while the piece is between centers. Sand to 180 grit while be- tween centers. The bowl gouge is used for shaping the outside.

Mount the tendon in the chuck and remove all wobble from piece. Finish shaping the piece with the bowl gouge. Sand the outside to 320 grit.

Use the bowl gouge to define the hollow form opening. Also create a small V for starting a drill bit. Drill a ½” hole to just shy of desired depth. Mike uses a long masonry bit in a handle to do this. Begin hollowing form. Take wall thickness to approximately ½” for top 2/3s of form.

Bring upper area of form to final wall thickness and sand inside. Bring rest of form to final wall thickness and sand.

Reverse mount the piece by either a jam chuck, or cone in the top. Insert the live center on the tail stock

into the marked center plug that was formed when the tendon was turned Bring the lower part of the piece to final shape and undercut the base. Sand the lower part of the piece

through 320 grit. Undercut the base. Reduce the size of the tailstock plug to give you room to work. Form the base. Sand the base and bring the tailstock plug to approximately ¼” diameter. Remove plug

with a hand saw. Use a rotary carver to remove the plug in the base. Hand sand to remove the dimple.

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